Sprinter Van Floor Installation: Part 2

Sprinter Van Floor Installation

After completing the first step of floor installation, we outlined the 3 separate plywood panels (harvested from sustainable sources with no added formaldehyde adhesive) using the same paper templates we traced on the minicell foam, and used a jigsaw to cut the pieces to fit the floor like puzzle pieces. It took us a few tries to get it as close to the walls and wheel wells as possible. We did offset the plywood panels a bit so that the breaks would be in a different position than the minicell foam, and also to align it better with the factory bolt locations.

Once fitted, we lifted up the panels one at a time and placed a permanent marker tip in the factory bolt holes facing up so that we could accurately mark the proper spot for holes. This was done by slowly lowering the panels down onto the marker and repeating that step for the rest of the bolt holes.  We drilled holes into the panels, using a 3/8″ drill bit which was just slightly bigger than the M8 1.25 pitch 70mm bolts that we were using to bolt the panels down. After making sure the holes lined up, we used a 3/4 Countersink drill bit to create flush dips for the bolts to sit in.

After the plywood panels were bolted down, we filled the corner gaps with Great Stuff insulating foam. It took an entire can to fill the floor spaces.  The stuff can get really messy and the nozzles often break or malfunction, so don’t get frustrated, take your time and wear gloves because this stuff doesn’t come off.  After the foam dried and hardened,we trimmed the excess foam so that it would sit flush to the floor. We sanded the plywood to make sure it was clean, and then dusted and vacuumed it in preparation for the adhesive layer.

We opted to use the Roberts 2310 adhesive, because of its pressure sensitive and resealable properties, in case we ever had to replace the floor. We began laying down the adhesive using a trowel with 1/16″ notches to spread an even layer across the first panel. Once spread evenly across the floor we waited around 40-50 min for a resealable application(less time for a more permanent seal) and began rolling out the vinyl flooring.

Initially we wanted to install bamboo flooring, but the cost was too high for us, so we opted to use a standard vinyl floor that was low cost, waterproof and fairly damage resistant. We purchased a 12ft by 6ft roll of vinyl and it covered the entire floor with enough excess to wrap around the edges. We used a rolling pin to get rid of any bubbles underneath the vinyl and once the adhesive dried, we used a knife to trim around the walls and wheel wells leaving excess at the edges near the doors for a fold over. We then laid down caulk around all of the edges to create a waterproof seal.

Ta da! The floor is finally finished.  It really was a process and a challenging learning curve and a lot of pre-planning since it was our first time installing insulated floors, but we are happy with the end result. Of course Kyuri had to test it out with a few yoga moves before we start filling the space with furniture!

Sprinter Van Floor Installation: Part 1

After applying two coats of POR-15 Rust Preventative Coating to the cargo floor and letting it cure, the next step was to install a wooden floor with sound and thermal insulation underneath it. Having done a bit of research before hand, and picking up tips on Sprinter-Forum.com and from a few other van conversion blogs, we felt ready to tackle this install. Heat and sound insulation were of upmost importance to us. We ended up picking the following materials for the floor, listed from top to bottom layer:

  • HPVA Oak Plywood harvested from sustainable sources, no added formaldehyde adhesive
  • L200 MiniCell Foam
  • Noico 50mil Sound Deadener

The sound deadener from Noico has great reviews on Amazon, some comparing it as a close competitor to the much more expensive Dynamat. It does not have a strong odor such as Fatmat, or other tar based sound deadeners. Noico offers both a 50mil and 80mil versions of its product, and we opted to use the thinner deadener for the floor, as a few more layers of other material were going on top it. Beginning at the seats and working our way back, the entire cargo floor and the wheel wells were covered with the deadener. Roughly 65 square feet of the product was required for a 144″ wheelbase van. It was easier to apply the product side to side instead of front to back of the van, due to the direction of the floor ridges. A roller tool helped with removing any air bubbles, and we would definitely recommend using gloves to help avoid hand cuts from the thin sheet metal layer found on Noico.

Noico Installed on floor
Noico sound deadening material installed on floor

After that step was completed, we began cutting the minicell foam into thin strips to fit into the ridges of the floor. Some of these were 1″ wide, others closers to 2″. It took a while to cut all the required pieces, and after we were done cutting and arranging them out in the ridges, we numbered the pieces from 1 to about 60. The reason for this was to know which piece goes exactly where, as we did not want to glue the strips before putting down another layer of foam. The next step was to trace a paper template for the large pieces of foam and plywood, and the small foam pieces were taken out of the van.

We had some studio photography background paper left over, and used it for the paper template. Next we traced and cut the three separate templates precisely, and paper made this process easier as its inherently more flexible than material such as cardboard. With the paper templates ready and traced, the next step of cutting the minicell foam was easy, and both the ridge strips and the full foam layers were ready to be installed. 3M 77 Spray adhesive was used to glue the 60 strips to the cargo floor ridges, and then the process was repeated for the entire three sheets of minicell foam which were glued on top of the strips layer.

After applying both the Noico and L200 MiniCell foam, the plywood was ready to go in. We taped the same paper template used for the foam to the plywood, and marked the outline. Using a jigsaw, the contour was cut out, and then a drill was used to get to the bolt holes. After a few corrections to get everything right, the three plywood pieces finally fit in like a jigsaw puzzle and were left in the van overnight to let the underlying foam adhesive to cure.

The next steps of bolting down the plywood, applying adhesive, and gluing a vinyl floor on top are covered in Floor Installation Part 2.